Cinque Terre
Five ancient fishing villages, terraced vineyards and abundant seafood…
Cinque Terre or five lands is a UNESCO world heritage site comprised of five ancient villages perched on rugged cliffs on the Ligurian Sea.
How to Travel to Cinque Terre
Traveling to Cinque Terre requires some planning because it’s not close to a major city and is difficult to reach by car. Once you visit the area you will realize it was worth the effort. Traveling by train is highly recommended. The closest airports are Genoa (GOA) or Pisa (PSA). From Pisa airport a high-speed people mover will conveniently transport you to the Pisa Centrale station where you will board a Trenitalia train to La Spezia Centrale station. From La Spezia Centrale take the regional train towards Sestri Levante which stops at each of the five villages that comprise Cinque Terre. Flying into Milan is also an option but it’s further away and will take more time.
You may encounter a train strike or work slow down so be prepared for delays. Strikes might only last an hour but day long strikes certainly cause a lot of disruption. Check the Trenitalia website because the strike announcements are often posted in advance allowing you to adjust your plans.
How to Drive in Cinque Terre
The towns are connected by rail, boat and the famous hiking trails. Information about navigating the region can be found on this official website Parco Nazionale delle Cinque Terre . Sections of trails may be shut down due to land slides or repairs so consult the website before you head out.
Cars are allowed to drive on the wider streets in Monterosso but not in the other villages. There are parking areas located above each town and from their you can walk the narrow streets. I don’t recommend doing the drive on your own. Hiring a driver/guide for a day enabled us to get an overview of the area and visit each town without navigating the steep and winding roads or struggling to find a rare parking spot. The following days we took the train from town to town on our own. Unfortunately, the boats were not operating because the rough seas made docking impossible.
What to See in Cinque Terre
Monterosso al Mare is the largest and busiest of the five towns. It’s also the only one that has a large sandy beach that attracts many visitors in the summer. Monterosso is divided into two sections separated by a pedestrian train tunnel. The train station is located in the busier, more modern section called Fegina where you’ll find a variety shops, hotels and restaurants. An easy walk from the station along the beachfront and through the pedestrian train tunnel brings you to the ancient section of Monterosso with it’s steep alleyways and terraced gardens.
Vernazza is a picturesque harbor town. Wander the narrow streets before heading to Belforte Tower and A. Doria Castle, built in the 11th century to protect the village from pirates. The panoramic views are spectacular from this vantage point.
Corniglia, unlike the other villages, does not have direct access to the sea. From the terrace at the edge of the cliff you will have views of the other villages To reach the Corniglia from the train station it’s necessary to climb the Lardarina, a zig zagging 382 step staircase.
Manarola is surrounded on three sides by terraced grapevines that produce the region’s sweet Sciacchetra wine. The tall, colorful buildings appear to tilt toward the sea. Leave the small town and walk the paths among the grapevines for unforgettable views of this memorable town.
Riomaggiore is easily identified by the welcoming red building at the foot of the harbor. Fishermen launch their boats and unload their catch of the day from the ramp.
Where to Stay in Cinque Terre
Staying overnight in one of the towns provides a more authentic experience than visiting just for the day. After the day trippers depart, the pace slows down and you can really appreciate the uniqueness of Cinque Terre. We listened to bands from all over Italy perform at the outdoor Festival bandistico. Another night, we watched as locals of all ages competed in a walnut tossing game in Piazza Garibaldi, the main square in Monterosso. Both experiences were highlights of our trip because we stopped feeling like tourists for a moment as we mingled with townspeople.
Hotel Villa Steno is a charming hotel, overlooking the old town of Monterosso. Upon our arrival, Matteo and his wife, Carla welcomed us with snacks and an apertif. We woke each morning to the sound of ringing church bells in the square below and enjoyed a delicious breakfast at the hotel restaurant before heading out to explore. We chose to stay in Monterosso because it’s the largest of the five towns and offered a variety of hotel options and restaurants.
Where to Eat in Cinque Terre
It’s probably no surprise that fresh seafood from the Ligurian Sea is plentiful in Cinque Terre. Their famous anchovies are prepared every way imaginable and are truly delicious. No need to worry, however, fresh pasta and focaccia are also popular. Fresh pesto alla genovese is made from the basil grown in the terraced gardens in the villages and is often served over, trofie, a spiral shaped pasta.
Monterosso
Ristorante Belvedere -this scenic seafood restaurant just steps from the beach dotted with umbrellas and boats was hands down our favorite. Everything was outstanding but the star of the show was the house specialty, Anfora Belvedere, a seafood stew that is cooked in a traditional earthen pot then poured steaming hot into bowls at the table.
Ristorante Miky is pricier and fancier than most Cinque Terre restaurants. We enjoyed it but I think other restaurants were just as good or better and less expensive.
Il Casello served up delicious food on an outdoor patio on a cliff overlooking the sea.
Manarola
Il Porticciolo – We ate across the street from Il Porticciolo at a tiny wine bar owned by a local winemaker. His elderly mother prepared the simplest but most flavorful lunch that we will remember for a long time!
Corniglia
Caffee Matteo This casual eatery frequented by villagers is located in a secluded, shady square where you can enjoy cappuccino, focaccia or the traditional pasta.
Where to Shop in Cinque Terre
Cinque Terre doesn’t offer many shopping options but it’s worth seeking out shops that sell authentic crafts and food specialties of the region. You’ll find stores that have shelves loaded with jars of local pesto and anchovies. They make a great souvenir to enjoy at home.
I was fortunate to meet one of the owners when I walked into Fabbrica D’Arte a small shop near the distinctive white and green marble Church of San Giavanni Battista on Via Roma in Monterosso. He and his wife along with another couple are passionate about creating hand-made bowls, vases and tableware and whimsical ceramic fish inspired by the sea and natural beauty of the region.
Ciao from Cinque Terre
Italy Cinque Terre Corniglia Italy La Spezia Centrale LIgurian Sea Manarola Monterosso Pesto al genovese Riomaggiore Trenitalia UNESCO Vernazza Villa Steno Hotel
Beth's Boarding Pass 